Sep 5, 2024 3:00 PM
To be confirmed
Cancelled

From the calamity of clothes to the clothes of calamity

From the calamity of clothes to the clothes of calamity

Panel:
[PA] Semiotic Explorations of Ecology (in Design, Architecture, Urbanism, Landscaping) (Isabel Marcos, Claudio Guerri)
Share it!
Speaker:
Margarida Amaro
ICNOVA - NOVA Institute of Communication, NOVA School of Social Sciences and Humanities, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Lisbon, Portugal
See details

This paper analyses the intersection between fashion, recycling, and environmental consciousness by examining how African activist designers transform discarded clothing into new garments or artworks.The fast fashion's global spread makes it one of the world's biggest polluters, generating climate change that leads to catastrophes.Informal African markets are flooded with charity donations or wholesale clothing, perpetuating “waste colonialism” while mitigating the aftermath of catastrophes. Arriving in bundles, these clothes are often known by names such as "Dead White Man's Clothes" in Zimbabwe, “Fardo” in Angola, "Clothes of Calamity (Xicalamidades)” in Mozambique, which refer to their original form and purpose and associate them with the idea of death and calamity, catastrophes according to René Thom (1972).Catastrophe, thus understood as a process that creates (or destroys) forms - a process of “morphogenesis” that shakes “structural stability” (Petitot, 2015) - is uniquely embodied by fashion, which is nothing other than the death and ghostly resurrection of forms (Baudrillard, 1976).Designers behind the brands such as "Doutor dos Tecidos” or “Mima-te” exemplify the process of morphogenesis by repurposing second-hand clothes from Maputo's markets. Similarly, Namibian Ina Maria Shikongo uses scraps of fabric and plastic waste to advocate for the environment through fashion: “Giving the trash a new look that carries the essence of what the future should be like” (Shikongo, @inamariashikongo).Fashion is always an immediate and total recycling of past forms (Baudrillard, Ibid) and the new life of clothing speaks the language of sustainability, not to be wasted.

Location:
3.120 room, WLS (Dobra 55 street)

Explore Sessions

02
September
9:30
-
10:30
Location:
Mickiewicz Hall, Auditorium Maximum (Krakowskie Przedmiescie 26/28 str.)
Congress events
Opening Ceremony

September 2, 2024
Congress events
Mickiewicz Hall, Auditorium Maximum (Krakowskie Przedmiescie 26/28 str.)
02
September
10:30
-
11:30
Location:
Mickiewicz Hall, Auditorium Maximum (Krakowskie Przedmiescie 26/28 str.)
From Signs of Language to Semioses of Life: Paradigms and Turns in Global Semiotics

September 2, 2024
Mickiewicz Hall, Auditorium Maximum (Krakowskie Przedmiescie 26/28 str.)
02
September
11:30
-
12:15
Location:
Australia Hall, WLS (Dobra 55 street)
Catering
Coffee break [catering]

September 2, 2024
Catering
Australia Hall, WLS (Dobra 55 street)
Margarida Amaro